Thursday, September 15, 2011

Runway Rundown: Spring 2012, New York, The Final Stretch

New York is over, but fashion month has just begun. Next stop, London! In the mean time, here are my final thoughts on the last few days of shows.
Marc Jacobs
Oh wow. The textures, the materials, the colors, the lines…where does one even begin? From someone who isn't always on the Marc Jacons train, this is one of my favorite from the New York season. I loved all of it, no joke. From the plastic, colored skirts to the tailored neutral coats, I want it all and I want it now. The brights mixed perfectly with the neutral and prints, the different textures matched as if they were made for each other. The draping mixed with the slim lines? Perfection. I may have doubted him in the past, but this collection was love.

On one hand, I love my edgier, more urban designers. But god, do I love a good over-the-top dress. Marchesa is one of my favorites season in and out, and yes you can joke about the amount of tulle they use, but hey, it works! Princess fantasy every. single. time. This season, the dresses felt a little less sculptural than in past seasons—perhaps because the models had to actually walk in them instead of just standing in a presentation. But there was still abundant amounts of tulle and beading in pale pastels and shimmery gold to make my inner little girl swoon.

Rachel Roy
I loved the easy pieces and comfortable luxe that Rachel Roy presented for spring. It wasn't in your face as some of the other shows were this season, but it gave me a nice warm and cuddly feeling. I just liked it. The black-and-white print contrasted with the salmon was lovely, as was the black hibiscus print maxi dress. The feminine frocks and masculine slouchiness with subtle asian touches made for a solid spring collection.

Proenza Schouler
My love affair with Proenza Schouler shows no sign of fading. I didn't automatically connect with this collection as I did with fall or last spring, but the longer I look at it, the more I like it. The design duo are continuing on with their slim, womanly silhouettes transformed with unique fabrics and embellishments for a solid spring collection. The prints are unique, as is the color palette of muted browns, oranges and yellows. Some people commented that the pieces felt a bit fall, which is understandable compared to the neon rainbow of other designers, but I like the palette. Sure, I'll probably have some in-your-face brights, but I can't wear that every day. At the end of the day, I loved this collection and the Proenza boys can do no wrong in my eyes.

Oscar de la Renta
Oscar de la Renta designs a killer dress, there's no doubt about that. For spring, he once again proved there's a reason he's been in the industry for so long. Full-skirted dresses with classic silhouettes tempered with utterly modern details like cropped tops and unique textures. Ultra glam slim lines embellished with sequins and tassels for the ultimate luxe experience. Honestly, Oscar's a classic. There's no real need to review his clothes every season because they're consistently solid.

3.1 Philip Lim
With the abundance of prints for spring 2012, it was quite nice to have a breather at the 3.1 Philip Lim show. Clean lines and vibrant colors, offset by only one print used sparingly on a couple of pieces. I loved the contrast of the sorbet layers against the navy and stark white. It made the collection minimal, but not boring. The slim, but slightly slouchy pieces gave the collection an easy to wear, but still elegant vibe. For those stylish gals who look impossibly chic even after they just throw on a dress and walk out the door.

Reed Krakoff
I'm officially a Reed Krakoff fan. I've already spent the last few seasons coveting his accessories, but his ready-to-wear has landed on my hot list for spring. The pieces aren't extravagant, but it feels like every stitch, material and layer was incredibly thought out and purposefully placed. Not that other designers don't do this, but there's a different level of attention. The bold yellow paired with neutrals was refreshing. Although it's not a shade I do often, I could see it making a place in my wardrobe for spring. Keep it up Reed!

Chris Benz
I haven't always been a Chris Benz devotee. There's just something that never clicked with me. But after trying on a skirt of his recently and falling in love, I decided to see what the spring 2012 collection looked like. I wasn't disappointed. I can't tell what is it this season that made me like the pieces, but the combination of print, slouchy luxurious silhouette and eccentric 60s housewife vibe just made me smile. Yup, chalk up a win for Chris Benz!

Marc by Marc Jacobs
I haven't always been a huge fan of Marc by Marc Jacobs. There's just been something that hasn't clicked. But this season, I'm changing my tune. There's a new sophistication to the designs that wasn't there before. Previous collection often tried too hard to be something edgy, but this season there's an ease to the designs, a lovely je ne sais quoi.

All photos: Imaxtree

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