Runway Rundown: Spring 2012, Paris Part Deux

Paris was the ultimate culmination of fashion week. New York was fun, London was quirky, Milan was a party and Paris was divine. Here are my faves of the week, part 2.

YSL

Alexander McQueen
Breathless, extravagant, dark…it's beautiful, every single piece of it.

Chanel
It normally takes me a while to warm up to Chanel collections. I tend to not like them the minute they hit the runway, but after a while I end up loving them. But this one was different, Karl's under sea set charmed me, and the clothes, with their playful prettiness, girly silhouettes and textured florals were a hit in my eyes from look one.

Elie Saab

Louis Vuitton
After the fetish party for fall that I never quite warmed to, Louis Vuitton's spring collection is more up my alley. With a pastel color palette and modern twist on classic 60s silhouettes, it tugs at my Mad Men loving heart strings and I have to admit it's love, sweet love. The oversized skirt suits, sheer cotton-candy like fabrics and creative accents are refreshing and flirty. Marc Jacobs, you killed it this season and I've added myself to your fan list.

Miu Miu

Valentino
Even on a minimalist silhouette, no one does red like Valentino.

Balenciaga
Nicholas Ghesquire manages to surprise me season after season with his ability to present collections that are thoroughly modern but still pay tribute to the classical house of Balenciaga. The oversized color-blocked jackets layered over languidly draped skirts and blouses have silhouettes that present the familiar wonder that Cristobal himself was able to produce, but with a modern, unique touch all their own.

Celine

Carven
I've been drawn to Carven's tomboy girlie girl designs for the past few seasons. There's something about the pristine mini dresses that just makes me smile. This time Guillaume Henry has delivered once again, with a candy-colored collection that follows in a similar vein as past collections, but puts a new twist on the concept. Bold brights and modern cutouts add a new sense of flair to the looks.

All photos: Imaxtree

Runway Rundown: Spring 2012, Paris Part Un

I want to write a lengthy, eloquent, flowery review for every single show I loved at Paris Fashion Week. But realistically, I loved too many and my brain has officially turned to mush halfway through. I was able to pull together some quick blurbs about some of them, but for others I'm just posting pictures. Pretty pictures of gorgeous clothes, still absolutely satisfying. Odds are people weren't reading the text anyway.

Here's part 1, part 2 to come tomorrow—stay tuned!

Chloe

Christian Dior

Dries Van Noten
If you haven't already noticed, I'm obsessed with prints and there aren't many who do them better than Dries Van Noten. Rather than the abstracts the brand normally presents, this season the landscapes were more straight to the point, but done in muted almost grayscale tones with the occasional flash of color. It was a refreshing new look that I'm seriously digging.

Isabel Marant
The cool French girl we all love is back for another season. The expert layers, slouchy knits and delightful sporty chic contrast of textures is back again. There's no wonder fashion's most fashionable clamor for her stuff season after season.

Givenchy
At Givenchy, the prints were done away with in favor of juxtaposing textures that gave depth to otherwise basic colors. I wanted all of it, especially after seeing a photo of Carine Roitfeld wearing one of the skirts…the day after the show. Amazing! The layering was exquisite: complex, but light and sleek. I bet the pieces were even more impressive up close.

Giambattista Valli
If I could have an entire closet full of Giambattista Valli, I'd be a happy happy girl. From ready-to-wear to couture, his designs are always exquisitely constructed and absolutely luxurious. No surface is left to chance and its all executed with a precision not often seen these days. For spring, the colors were muted with a variety of exquisite textured fabrics in a series of pearlized and metallic finishes. As usual, Giambattista's expert attention to shape and contrast made each piece special, somewhat edgy, but in a high-end way.

Lanvin
Moody, edgy, sleek, streamlined, tailored perfection. 'Nuff said.

Pedro Lourenço
This wunderkind has officially made his way to the top of my faces to watch list. I adored his spring collection and its contradicting yet harmonious use of a variety of textures and innovative fabrics. Glitter skirts, metallic fabric and neoprene on slim, yet oversized and slouchy silhouettes? I'm totally there.

Stella McCartney
Loved the different prints in similar colorways contrasted together for a seamless look. I also loved the baroque accents and sheer panels creating unique paneling and silhouettes. Solid collection, as always.

Vionnet

All photos: Imaxtree

Aquilano.Rimondi Spring/Summer 2012

So, I'm not sure how I missed this, but um—whoah, hubba hubba. Dear Aquilano.Rimondi, where have you been all my life? Spring 2012 was perfection. I die over every single gorgeously textured, expertly crafted, masterfully contrasted piece. It's love, true love.

All photos: Imaxtree

Runway Rundown: Spring 2012, Milan

Prada
Oh Miuccia, you've done it again! Who knew car prints could be so chic? For spring, Prada played on the Italian love of cars with a vintage-inspired car print on the candy colored ladylike pieces. There was also a play on contrasts with chunky, boxy jackets and coats topping off the sleek dresses underneath. Man Repeller joked that the collection would be the uniform for her birthday, but with the toys boys love printed on these pieces, man repellers these pieces are not.

Fendi
Karl, that was fantastic. The construction was impeccable on the luxuriously slouchy, yet masterfully constructed pieces. The muted color palette was easy on the eyes and understated, but beautiful. I can see all the pieces making their way into my wardrobe: the blazer with cutout shoulders and the sheer sweater with thick knit detailing, not to mention the dresses with unique tailored detailing. It was original, yet classic at the same time.

Marni
Marni, Marni, Marni, what is it about you that makes me want you every season? Is it your clean lines, adept utilization of contrast and texture, or your masterful print work? Oh wait, it's all of the above. For spring, Marni hit it right on the mark with a bold collection that hit all the sweet spots, but managed to feel new.

Jil Sander
Sleek and innovative, the characteristics that Jil Sander exudes season in and out were executed with perfect precision for spring. The signature structured pieces were present, complemented with sheer detailing and prints that felt familiar, yet new at the same time. I loved all of it, now if only I was tall enough to wear it.

Emporio Armani
It was back to basics at Emporio Armani, although only in the color palette because the pieces were anything but. Luxurious is one way to describe the expert construction that transformed the neutral palette into something rich and full. Who needs color when the pieces are this glamorous? I particularly loved the use of contrasting edges to add depth and texture to the garments, while the slim silhouettes oozed sophistication. Oh, and that cutout collar? I need it in my life.

D&G
Well, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana sure know how to say goodbye. I'm mourning the end of D&G and its flirtatious and whimsical collections, but it's hard to stay sad when their final season is so good—or does that make it even worse? Either way, I smiled from start to finish. The silky scarf prints were used in innovative ways, so that even if they dominated the entire collection, each look managed to feel fresh and new.

Dolce & Gabbana
I wouldn't have thought that one of my favorite collections from Milan would have lifted its inspiration from the produce aisle, but I never wanted to eat vegetables more than after the Dolce & Gabbana show. The innovative print combined with the womanly silhouettes had me from look 1. I can't wait to get my daily serving of veggies now!

Moschino
Moschino's tribute to the bull fight felt a bit literal at first, but hey who doesn't love a matador—well except the bull of course. With the sport disappearing—Catalonia just had its last bull fight—its apt that the brand pay tribute to the elegance of the costume. Intricate detailing felt luxe while the slim lines were undeniably sexy, topped off with a cheerful pop of yellow this collection won me over.

All Photos: Imaxtree

Runway Rundown: Spring 2012, London

Mary Katrantzou
I don't wear a lot of prints, but there's something about their expert execution at the hands of designer Mary Katrantzou that makes me want a closet full of them. With her, they're impeccably designed and never cheesy, as prints can sometimes be. Season in and out, she comes up with new ways to wow the audience visually and come up with something new and exciting. Combined with the abstract shapes and clever silhouettes she uses, Katrantzou proves once gain that she has staying power.

Clements Rebeiro
I almost turned away at the sight of the paisley. But I didn't, and I'm glad I stayed. As I clicked through the collection, something about the execution stuck with me. There's nothing kitchy about these prints, no sign of hippies. The lines are long, lean and ladylike, removing any stigma the pattern may have. Later on in the series, it was blended with more striking black-and-white patterns for a delightful contrast. It wasn't my favorite show of the season, but something about it made me smile.

Erdem
"Florals? For spring? Groundbreaking." I'm pretty sure if Miranda Priestly had seen the Erdem spring collection, she would have taken back her words. Because there's florals, and then there's Erdem florals. Once again, Erdem Moralioglu has showcased the mastery of prints that has put him at the top of the London fashion food chain. The calming water color prints for spring are romantic and utterly elegant, but not without a bit of sex appeal thrown in—subtly of course. These prints, although more muted than seasons past, are anything but stuffy.

Christopher Kane
While I'm kind of bummed that Christopher Kane put the neon's on the back burner for spring, I'm definitely not disappointed in his collection. In fact, it's probably one of my favorites of LFW. I loved the structured silhouettes and use of contrasts. There were sporty knits juxtaposed against flirty florals, somber jacquard suits with thigh-high slits, and textures galore. The things that delighted the most were the unexpected: peek-a-boo cutouts, flirty slits and unique construction. It was all new and left you wide-eyed and grinning. Bravo!

Burberry Prorsum
I didn't love Burberry last season, but they're back on track for spring with the unique brand of British cool that we all know and love. For spring, there's color and texture and contrast, all wrapped up in a neat edgy package. It's really quite perfect, with just the right amount of slouch and cool girl chic to keep you wanting more. The vibe was a bit heavy for spring, with lots of layering and outerwear. But knowing the weather in London, it's totally understandable—SF is the same! Besides, Burberry is known for its outerwear, no collection would be complete without it. I do have a complaint though, why do I have to wait till next year for all of this? I want it now!

Roksanda Illincic
Despite all the color that's come up for spring, I was still thoroughly refreshed by Roksanda Ilincic's take on it for spring. The colors were saturated and rich, luscious and bold. There was a luxurious slouch to the pieces which were done in decadent fabrics, but with comfortable silhouettes. All together, it was a delightful take on the season, where the piece made a statement without being overdone.

All photos: Imaxtree

Runway Rundown: Spring 2012, New York, The Final Stretch

New York is over, but fashion month has just begun. Next stop, London! In the mean time, here are my final thoughts on the last few days of shows.

Marc Jacobs
Oh wow. The textures, the materials, the colors, the lines…where does one even begin? From someone who isn't always on the Marc Jacons train, this is one of my favorite from the New York season. I loved all of it, no joke. From the plastic, colored skirts to the tailored neutral coats, I want it all and I want it now. The brights mixed perfectly with the neutral and prints, the different textures matched as if they were made for each other. The draping mixed with the slim lines? Perfection. I may have doubted him in the past, but this collection was love.

Marchesa
On one hand, I love my edgier, more urban designers. But god, do I love a good over-the-top dress. Marchesa is one of my favorites season in and out, and yes you can joke about the amount of tulle they use, but hey, it works! Princess fantasy every. single. time. This season, the dresses felt a little less sculptural than in past seasons—perhaps because the models had to actually walk in them instead of just standing in a presentation. But there was still abundant amounts of tulle and beading in pale pastels and shimmery gold to make my inner little girl swoon.

Rachel Roy
I loved the easy pieces and comfortable luxe that Rachel Roy presented for spring. It wasn't in your face as some of the other shows were this season, but it gave me a nice warm and cuddly feeling. I just liked it. The black-and-white print contrasted with the salmon was lovely, as was the black hibiscus print maxi dress. The feminine frocks and masculine slouchiness with subtle asian touches made for a solid spring collection.

Proenza Schouler
My love affair with Proenza Schouler shows no sign of fading. I didn't automatically connect with this collection as I did with fall or last spring, but the longer I look at it, the more I like it. The design duo are continuing on with their slim, womanly silhouettes transformed with unique fabrics and embellishments for a solid spring collection. The prints are unique, as is the color palette of muted browns, oranges and yellows. Some people commented that the pieces felt a bit fall, which is understandable compared to the neon rainbow of other designers, but I like the palette. Sure, I'll probably have some in-your-face brights, but I can't wear that every day. At the end of the day, I loved this collection and the Proenza boys can do no wrong in my eyes.

Oscar de la Renta
Oscar de la Renta designs a killer dress, there's no doubt about that. For spring, he once again proved there's a reason he's been in the industry for so long. Full-skirted dresses with classic silhouettes tempered with utterly modern details like cropped tops and unique textures. Ultra glam slim lines embellished with sequins and tassels for the ultimate luxe experience. Honestly, Oscar's a classic. There's no real need to review his clothes every season because they're consistently solid.

3.1 Philip Lim
With the abundance of prints for spring 2012, it was quite nice to have a breather at the 3.1 Philip Lim show. Clean lines and vibrant colors, offset by only one print used sparingly on a couple of pieces. I loved the contrast of the sorbet layers against the navy and stark white. It made the collection minimal, but not boring. The slim, but slightly slouchy pieces gave the collection an easy to wear, but still elegant vibe. For those stylish gals who look impossibly chic even after they just throw on a dress and walk out the door.

Reed Krakoff
I'm officially a Reed Krakoff fan. I've already spent the last few seasons coveting his accessories, but his ready-to-wear has landed on my hot list for spring. The pieces aren't extravagant, but it feels like every stitch, material and layer was incredibly thought out and purposefully placed. Not that other designers don't do this, but there's a different level of attention. The bold yellow paired with neutrals was refreshing. Although it's not a shade I do often, I could see it making a place in my wardrobe for spring. Keep it up Reed!

Chris Benz
I haven't always been a Chris Benz devotee. There's just something that never clicked with me. But after trying on a skirt of his recently and falling in love, I decided to see what the spring 2012 collection looked like. I wasn't disappointed. I can't tell what is it this season that made me like the pieces, but the combination of print, slouchy luxurious silhouette and eccentric 60s housewife vibe just made me smile. Yup, chalk up a win for Chris Benz!

Marc by Marc Jacobs
I haven't always been a huge fan of Marc by Marc Jacobs. There's just been something that hasn't clicked. But this season, I'm changing my tune. There's a new sophistication to the designs that wasn't there before. Previous collection often tried too hard to be something edgy, but this season there's an ease to the designs, a lovely je ne sais quoi.

All photos: Imaxtree