Thursday, September 22, 2011
Runway Rundown: Spring 2012, London
I don't wear a lot of prints, but there's something about their expert execution at the hands of designer Mary Katrantzou that makes me want a closet full of them. With her, they're impeccably designed and never cheesy, as prints can sometimes be. Season in and out, she comes up with new ways to wow the audience visually and come up with something new and exciting. Combined with the abstract shapes and clever silhouettes she uses, Katrantzou proves once gain that she has staying power.
I almost turned away at the sight of the paisley. But I didn't, and I'm glad I stayed. As I clicked through the collection, something about the execution stuck with me. There's nothing kitchy about these prints, no sign of hippies. The lines are long, lean and ladylike, removing any stigma the pattern may have. Later on in the series, it was blended with more striking black-and-white patterns for a delightful contrast. It wasn't my favorite show of the season, but something about it made me smile.
"Florals? For spring? Groundbreaking." I'm pretty sure if Miranda Priestly had seen the Erdem spring collection, she would have taken back her words. Because there's florals, and then there's Erdem florals. Once again, Erdem Moralioglu has showcased the mastery of prints that has put him at the top of the London fashion food chain. The calming water color prints for spring are romantic and utterly elegant, but not without a bit of sex appeal thrown in—subtly of course. These prints, although more muted than seasons past, are anything but stuffy.
While I'm kind of bummed that Christopher Kane put the neon's on the back burner for spring, I'm definitely not disappointed in his collection. In fact, it's probably one of my favorites of LFW. I loved the structured silhouettes and use of contrasts. There were sporty knits juxtaposed against flirty florals, somber jacquard suits with thigh-high slits, and textures galore. The things that delighted the most were the unexpected: peek-a-boo cutouts, flirty slits and unique construction. It was all new and left you wide-eyed and grinning. Bravo!
I didn't love Burberry last season, but they're back on track for spring with the unique brand of British cool that we all know and love. For spring, there's color and texture and contrast, all wrapped up in a neat edgy package. It's really quite perfect, with just the right amount of slouch and cool girl chic to keep you wanting more. The vibe was a bit heavy for spring, with lots of layering and outerwear. But knowing the weather in London, it's totally understandable—SF is the same! Besides, Burberry is known for its outerwear, no collection would be complete without it. I do have a complaint though, why do I have to wait till next year for all of this? I want it now!
Despite all the color that's come up for spring, I was still thoroughly refreshed by Roksanda Ilincic's take on it for spring. The colors were saturated and rich, luscious and bold. There was a luxurious slouch to the pieces which were done in decadent fabrics, but with comfortable silhouettes. All together, it was a delightful take on the season, where the piece made a statement without being overdone.
All photos: Imaxtree